Our planned three days self-camping at South Luangwa could have been split many ways. We decided to change camps as we wanted to explore the Nsefu section of the park. This section is seldom visited by people. The Nsefu section was granted to the local chief to run as a community project for the benefit of the local people. The people could thus benefit from the preservation of wildlife and the accruing income would go directly to them.
This decision to move was made easier for us as the route up the escarpment through the main park had the road not yet been completed, after the summer rains. Every year the river crossings have to be rebuilt. The alternative is twofold; either a 1400km drive back to Lusaka and on to the North Road or find a way through the north eastern escarpment. Fortunately, we met a chap, as one does, in the Wildlife campsite, and he told us of his journey down. His journey was in the opposite direction of what we had planned. He had a 4x4 Pajero and he told of many river crossings.
Zikomo Lodge and Camp is in the Nsefu section and is in the direction we need to go. The GPS showed a simple 50km to the camp. Two and a half hours later, with two river crossings, sees us in the camping section of Zikomo Camp. What a lovely spot. The Lodge part offers all the upmarket lodging and meals that one could wish for. We are on the camping budget so the campsite is about 750m from the lodge. A totally isolated place on the banks of the Luangwa River. Just three sites are on offer, each serviced by a private bathroom made of reeds. The bathroom offers an open-air shower and toilet with basin. As usual we have the place to ourselves.
It is so peaceful and relaxing under the trees looking out at the hippos and whatever else comes past. The birdlife with Fish Eagles leading the way is prolific. Just at the camp entrance we had to avoid three elephants. Completely unfenced we are at the mercy of the animals.
We have decided to relax here today ahead of a 200km drive tomorrow, which will take us about 8 hours.
Chantal and Conny, on a walk around, met the owner, Victoria. Super sales lady, she spoke highly of the late afternoon game drive and the dinner provided later. We had initially decided to just relax, but the prospect of a missed opportunity weighed on us.
We decided on the game drive and it was just us, the guide and spotter in the vehicle. Moses proved to be a find. His knowledge of birds was exceptional. We spotted three species which were completely new to us. Broad Tailed Paradise Whydah, Crowned Hornbill and Bronze-Winged Courser.
Later, as the sun was going down, Moses got very excited. We came across the resident pack of wild dogs. They were in full flight on a hunt, which turned out unsuccessful in the end. The alpha female was heavily pregnant and it was a thrill to sit and watch her call the pack together to settle for the night. The light was fading fast so the pics are of poor quality, but as they say, if there are no pics it did not happen. The usual sundowner drink was enjoyed after this sighting.
Time for the spotlight drive home and another great sighting of a leopard. We got really close and managed to spend quite a bit of time with her. After all that we returned to the lodge and, as the hour was late, we had a lovely dinner on the deck overlooking the river. It was magic.
Our next destination is Kapishya Hot Springs.
Vegetable seller who came around to our camp. Rather like Uber.
Saddle Billed stork with lunch.
Camp Entrance
My travel companions.
Lillian's Love Birds, they mate for life.
Very low light, apologies
Dinner table.
Oh my word. So much adventure in one day! Loved the pic of Mom and Conny. And those Lillian's Love Birds- I'd never heard of them before. How sweet! Such cool sightings, too. Lovely to read about the travels again :)